Early September.
I wake up on a normal morning and drink my coffee. Read my book. Ponder what spontaneity I can get myself into for the day. I plan on playing Pickleball so I get some natural energy going.
I’m playing really well. Focused. Energetic. I had a wedding consult in 45 minutes and had to soak up every bit of action before the call to have my clarity.
I make the call and the bride-to-be tells me her wedding is going to be in Leavenworth - Deep in the mountains in the Northwest. I immediately think of Index, a rock climbing Mecca in the rainforest, just an hour outside of that. I think about the camping under the trees, the via ferrata routes that’s are insanely exposed and dangerous, I think about the climbs to be had. Especially Cunning Stunt, the climb that nearly ripped my soul of out of my body with fear just a few months before.
I really wanted this wedding now, to get paid a few thousand dollars to go and do what I would’ve happily done for free anyways. I could use an excuse to get out there in the fall time also. I offered her to cover the travel cost for free to incentivize her and she booked me.
I head out to Index a few days before the wedding with Daniel Lynch, a good guy and phenomenal climber. There’s very few people on the planet that I can spend a few days with on the rock and next to a fire with but Lynch has the conversational style that I appreciate so it makes it easy. He was simple and I liked that a lot. He just wanted to smoke his cigarettes, do his brutal climbs and challenge himself as much as possible. He exuded a quiet confidence and spoke of things that he was proud of, sharing a refreshing and vulnerable perspective on the hard work he’s put in.
I wish more people showed themselves this rational amount of respect.
By the time I get there, Lynch has already been there for a couple hours and already found the wall, and a climber named Long to belay him until I arrived. I ate an edible a couple hours previously that is still crushing me so I feel ready to climb and stir up some fear. They’re just coming down from a sand-bagged 11c, one that I could never do, let alone warm up on, but I give it a go and fail halfway through.
I come down, they work on another route and then Long tells me he wants me to get on Cunning Stunt while they take a break. I’m not ready for this climb yet. It’s been in my head for months now as a very real reminder of what hell must actually feel like. A symbolic fear lodged into my head as the one that almost took me out and made me question my entire existence up to that point. A fear that made me logically tell myself that ‘Maybe I can give up climbing for now. The fear is too much.’
As I am telling myself all of this, Lynch hands me the rope and all those thoughts drift away in the moment. Long enough to get my to stupidly tie the knot, attach the rope and feel the rock.
The moment I touch that cold, black granite - I am transported back to a few months ago, when my life was so incredibly different. The last time I felt that rock and looked up at this climb, I was stuck in a perilous situation with love. I was in a relationship with a very sweet girl, someone I loved, but logically and clearly knew that we were just not a long term match. I had been toiling on the decision of breaking up with her for months now, many months, and it had locked me into a holding pattern where my soul continued to slowly die. I kept choosing to ignore the inevitable for just one more night of falling asleep next to her. One more kiss. One more adventure with her. With each one though, my mind reminded me mercilessly that I was simply putting off what had to be done. When I did this climb last, the soul-draining fear woke me up and reminded me that I might be able to embrace the pain of that breakup and survive it. That maybe, there was enough in me to do the right thing, cry my way through the hurt and come out, someday, in the light on the other side. I came back from that climb awakened and ready to embrace something I had put off for far too long at that point.
We broke up. I immediately knew it was the right thing. I cried but somehow, came through on the other side without a single ounce of regret.
So now, to be back at that wall and feel that rock, I was reminded of the growth that has happened since. I was here now to finish it. Finish the climb that woke up and reminded me that so much of fear is merely a mirage. I worked my way up the wall like a dance, remembering every move it took to get to the crux and prepare to go into hell for a minute.
When I got to the crux, it was like seeing an old lover. One that was brutally toxic and had badly damaged you but, when you looked into their eyes again and smelled their perfume, you only remembered the easy parts of it. I felt the holds and knew what I had to do. I vividly remembered that, once I moved my foot up to the next step, that there was no coming back without falling. It was a clear, crucial commitment to following it through to the end, to somehow getting that bolt clipped in while vulnerably hanging over the abyss. I remembered that the bolt was sketchy to be able to clip, which is why I wasn’t able to get it last time. It required you to walk your way up a flake that had no feet to use at all, hang out 100+ feet over the valley, get one hand on the bolt and then - the most terrifying part of all - somehow pull the rope up to get it through that sketchy bolt as you hung. If you were to fall during that clip in, with the rope strung out, it was a big one. One that surely was magnified significantly in the deep fears I had associated with the climb. The fall would have likely been 20-30 feet but, in my mind, it was a fall to a certain agonizing death. I just could not afford to do it, in my mind, if I wanted to live.
I got myself up to the step. I committed myself and moved quickly. I got to the flake and walked my hands up it, auto-piloting it as I overdosed on adrenaline. The world shut off in blackness and there was no noise. No birds. Not even sunshine other than the light I needed to see the next hold. I got to the spot that I had dreaded for so long - The one where I had to look up at this piece of shit bolt and commit myself even further, just at the hopes at somehow getting out of this alive. Still, at this point, I didn’t plan on actually finishing it. I couldn’t even conceive that. But, as I looked at the bolt, I wondered if I could just touch it. I did and then quickly told myself that, if I could touch it, I could likely get the draw in it, which I tried next. The draw went in and I breathed for a moment. Then, I knew that, if I could get the draw in, I could likely get the rope in and somehow claw my way out of this quickly approaching abyss. Stupidly, I just went for it. I pulled the rope through, knowing full well that there was no turning back anymore. I had fucked up and gotten myself so committed that this was either only going to be glory or death - There was no safe route left anymore. No one could rescue me.
The rope touched the draw but I was panicking far too much to get it in. It’s funny how, the worse you need to get a clip in, the worse you usually do with actually getting it to clip. Your hands are shaking with adrenaline. You know exactly how fucked and exposed you are. So you fuck it up if you can’t calm down.
I drop the rope, further cementing that this is likely not going to turn out well. I could always down climb to the last bolt, I lied to myself, as I knew I didn’t even have the strength to do that. My muscles were starting to give in, my strength melting away as I put 100% into just holding myself onto the wall. Soon, the adrenaline would run dry and I would slip off the rock, into hell, as I tumbled down that rock.
I couldn’t do that. I was just too terrified to.
I picked up the rope again and tried to breathe just to get it done. It was a messy process, holding myself on the rock with one hand as I fumbled and panicked with the other. I tried again and couldn’t get it. The bit the rope with my teeth, feeling like a Vietnam vet that had been shot in the leg and was trying to offset the agony, and tried to put it up one more time. I only had the strength for one more attempt, literally, and didn’t feel very optimistic with it because of how the rest had gone.
I got it against the gate and all I had to do was push it through. I did somehow. It clicked. Holy shit. I was safe. I was going to survive this hell. I truly never thought I was going to feel that feeling.
I asked Daniel to take for a moment so I could stand there and breathe for the first time in minutes. The second he did, and I was able to let go of that wall, I started crying immediately. A release from an overwhelming tidal wave of emotion. One that lasted less than a minute but could’ve filled three lifetimes with it’s power.
I finished the route and came down. I sat there and stared at the wall for an hour, as Daniel and Long projected on a difficult climb next to it. I was numb and in a bit of disbelief that it had happened - But that was buttressed among a strong feeling of contentment. I can’t believe I had done it. It was symbolic of where my life was.
We camped for the next couple nights and climbed everything we could. Lynch didn’t even care about eating - He would jam some granola into his mouth when he had a fleeting moment in between climbs. We were there to climb everything we could and make sure we left with no regrets. With no energy left in our bodies. Guaranteeing that, at the end, we would drink the best beer of our life, knowing we had done it.
Lynch had to leave the next night to drive back to Coeur d’ Alene. The crazy fuck had a training class to teach at 9 a.m. and now, it was 9 p.m. and he still had a 5-hour drive ahead. Through the mountains, in the night time. Regardless, he sat as long as he could to enjoy one more beer and one more crazy conversation with climbers before setting back off to the real world.
I smoked a joint and sat by the fire before crashing for the night. I woke up rested and peaceful, dirt under my fingernails and BO that I didn’t even notice anymore, and deconstructed my tent to head back to the real world myself. Today, I had an engagement session with my good friend Weston and his girl Carly and then a wedding at 3 p.m. I badly needed a shower but I was worried I had dirt bagged it too long that asking to cleanse my dirt in their bathroom was not fair, even to the kindest of hearts. Thankfully, Weston offered me instead and I gladly accepted, having that shower not just wash off the dirt but also bring me back into a light sense of normalcy that I would need for the rest of the day.
I came out of the shower and now, was glad to hug Weston and Carly and meet her friend Amber, who had flown up to spend some time with her.
It was 11 in the morning but they were nervous to get their photographs taken so they took some shots to quiet off the inhibitions. A little more delaying. A couple more checks in the mirror. A couple more thoughts about their clothes and hats. Then we were off.
As always, I don’t plan anything out with the shoots so we aimlessly wandered through the streets of Leavenworth, a beautiful German town that was alive with drinking and singing already. We found moment after moment, much to Carleys dismay, where I would set up beautiful pictures around the unsuspecting strangers in the town. In one scene, we passed a plant store that had a claw foot bathtub right in the entrance. I knew I wanted to put them in the tub for a gorgeous picture so I asked the employee that worked there and she agreed. They sat on thin cardboard, in a bathtub filled with dirt, and shined with pure love, as the spontaneous moment was just too strange to be able to overthink it.
We photographed in a park. On a bridge. Lively conversation throughout. And then I had to go to my wedding.
I drove through the mountains and got lost on a back road, having my GPS take me to the wrong address. I called the bride and she didn’t answer. I was late and all I could do was sit there and wait. Finally, a lady came out of one of the mountain homes and told me where to go - Getting me there just 10 minutes behind.
I met everybody, including Alisha, the beautiful bride for the day, and we were off. I got to know everybody personally, learn their names and stories, and the genuine emotion just poured out as we all became comfortable with one another. The lighting was just too good and lent itself to a dramatic, striking setting for the bride to put on her wedding dress, with her mom tearing up as she finished the final buttons on the back. Within minutes of first saying hello, they handed me $10k rings and jewelry and blindly trusted a stranger as I took them outside to photograph them in the nature. That’s how quickly genuine trust can be earned, or destroyed. Allow people to feel it deeply just based on your personality, your eye contact, your heart.
We finished at their home and went to a park I suggested, though barely knew, for the first look. Douglas, the groom, called me and pleaded with me to pick a different spot. It was too dusty and barren he said. ‘I don’t care - You just have to trust me’ was my blunt response, knowing that we didn’t have the luxury of time to ponder on if there was a better spot. They did trust me and as I walked towards the dusty bowl, really not knowing how this was going to turn out, I noticed a small meadow to the left with a trail that cut through it. That was our salvation. That was our Shangri La.
The photographs were gorgeous, with the sun coming through the pines and shining on the golden, tall grass. The groom cried as the bride wrapped around his back, holding her hands as the tension built up. He turned around to see her and the whole world shut off again - It was just them two, in a moment they had anticipated for a long time, and I was just a fly on the wall to show them what it looked like. I took some beautiful shots and then left them to themselves to make out and be passionate before coming back into the group.
We headed to the wedding and got there with a quickly fading sunlight. A very real time clock that kept us accountable to our itinerary, knowing that there was no way we could get these big family photos without it. We got the shots. The ceremony was gorgeous. I had a deep, philosophical conversation with the pastor minutes before Alisha walked down the aisle. I snuck big glasses of red wine from the bartender named Hannah. I saw a black gentleman holding his newborn baby, sitting in a corner by himself, and got a gorgeous shot of him glowing on his baby with admiration. The music started and never stopped, except for the quick speeches, which were lively with a lot of audience participation. I ate everything that came close to me. Stuffed meatballs from the waiters with black ties. Salmon with ginger and cucumbers. A never ending charcuterie board. More red wine. More laughter. More candid photographs.
Did I mention I get paid a lot of money to do this? I have no idea why but I am grateful.
The reception kicked off with Abba, telling us all quickly how energetic this night was going to be. The whole wedding sung every word, with the DJ sometimes turning the music down so we could belt out the best parts of the song. There was as much energy in that one room that there is in a football stadium, packed with 100,000 fans. I was floating. Guests begged me to put the camera down and just dance with them. I kept my camera on but danced regardless, bouncing throughout the room to notice every moment I could.
My time ended with them and I danced for another 30 minutes, making sure the night dragged on as long as I could make it. Another glass of red wine. One more song. Okay, one more song after that.
When I finally left, I said goodbye to the bride and groom, who already felt like we were long time friends. We hugged, we both shared a lot of appreciation and I was off. Walking back to my car, under the blinding Milky Way above me, surrounded by the dark, ominous mountains that make me feel right at home.
I just couldn’t fucking believe that this is my job. I would have done all of this for free (or just for the red wine, at least).
-
Fuck that. I booked a room in Leavenworth. I wasn’t ready to leave, just yet, and go back to reality.